So ya wanna buy a Fox. Before you do, there are some things you should know about. Like all used cars, they've got their problem areas, and this page is designed to help you see if your potential Fox Bird or Cougar is up to snuff (due to a total lack of experience with Mark VII's, I can't really help you there).
Perhaps some of the most important problems are rust related (To me, anyways - I can't do bodywork). Here are the places that I've found to be the worst for rust:
- 1: At the base of the rear window, near the outter edges. Check for blisters around the chrome window trim, and also open the trunk and check the seam near the hinge. This is a difficult area to repair without having it noticeable, because it's right at eye level.
- 2: The front edge of the rear quarter panels. It's quite common to see holes here, but it's a fairly easily repaired area, because it's relatively flat and below the beltline, so it's not as noticeable.
- 3: Around the rear wheel openings. Feel up in behind the area for any possible earlier repairs. This is not a good area to repair either, because the surface is quite complicated. Any wave or ripple here will be very noticeable.
- 4: The rear subframe. Check this area very carefully - in salt laden areas, this is almost surely rusted. Depending on the severity, it may be repairable, but I've seen them rusted so bad that the rear quarter panels actually buckled due to the lack of support from the subframe. Also check the rear torque boxes (where the rear lower control arms attach to the body) for rust or stress cracks. The trunk floor can get pretty ripe on these cars, too.
- 5: The rear quarter panel/rocker panel seam. This is a very difficult area to repair - any bodyfill applied here will almost certainly crack due to the flexing of the body structure.
- 6: The bottoms of both doors. Quite common for the outter panel to separate from the inner. If the damage isn't too bad, it can be fixed, but if the whole bottom of the door's gone, steer clear of it (just price up a door shell someday).
- 7: The transmission crossmember. Check to make sure it's solid, especially at each end, where it bolts to the body.
- 8: The floor/rocker panel seam. A relatively easilly repaired area since it's out of sight, but remember that the factory jack uses this spot to lift the car, and if it's weak, you could be in trouble.
- 9: The bottom of the front fenders. The easiest repair for these is replacement. Also, check the wheel opening area, same as the rear quarter panel.
- 10: The front strut towers. Open the hood and check 'em - it only takes a second, and you'll be glad you did. Pay particular attention to the seams.
- 11: The forward edge of the front wheel openings. If this is the only area on the front fender with rust (holes are common) it's quite repairable. If the fender is rusty in other areas, though, replacement is the key.
- 12: The radiator support. Very vital, not only for holding your rad up, but structurally as well. Quite prone to rust, too. If it's bad, you'd better know a welder.
- 13: I know, there's no number 13 above, but I just remembered this one: The rear trunk bulkhead, where the liscence plate and taillights bolt on. This may be a difficult area to check because it's so well hidden, but the same parts that hide it also trap moisture in and promote rust. A few well placed taps with your knuckles, along with some strategic pushing and pulling on the taillights and liscence plate should tell you the shape the panel's in.
Well, that's all the info for now, but there'll be more to come!